getting started - what's needed

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hillcountryflt
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getting started - what's needed

Post by hillcountryflt »

I am sitting here with my knee in an immobilizer following a orthoscopic surgery. Doc says recovery will be a little longer than previously billed as he did some "scraping."
But my F100 beckons my interest.
Researching some of the things I am going to need to start working on her in my driveway or mom's garage. So portability will be important.
I believe I have settled on a Hobart 140 MIG welder (need 115v);
I am planning to acquire an inexpensive cut-off tool from Harbor Freight for cutting panels;
I am planning on purchasing a higher grade tool (say makita, etc) for grinding down my welds (I only have 30 gallon tank, so pneumatic won't work);
I have most hand tools needed for mechanical work;
I have a 2-ton floor jack with stands (kit from Napa - not high-quality but OK).
My plan of attack initially is to work on the back end first on my step-side. Getting components ready and then having them painted individually. While that is being done, I will work on the frame from the cab back. Sanding, scraping, painting. Cleaning up and servicing the differential, etc.

Other than a helmet for the welder, what other components/supplies will I need.
1971 F100 Custom SB Flareside;
2016 Explorer;
2020 F150
2016 Harley Ultra Limited
2008 Ford Mustang Deluxe V6
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sargentrs
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by sargentrs »

By a cheap Ryobi 4-1/2 angle grinder and a supply of wire cup brushes and cut off wheels. Make sure you have cold chisels and punches handy. A good razor blade scraper for gaskets and a cheap set of wire hand brushes. A couple of different widths of steel putty knives for scraping heavy grease off. A pump sprayer with a couple of gallons of Purple Power or Simple Green degreaser. A 5 gallon bucket for soaking parts. Lots of rags.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by flyboy2610 »

As regarding the welder, I would make sure it can do both flux core wire welding, and true MIG welding, for which you will need to purchase the gas fittings if not included with the welder. Flux core is good for thicker materials, and working outdoors. But it runs hotter, so it's not so great for sheet metal, and the welds aren't as clean. You will have more spatter to grind off. True gas MIG welding runs cooler, and makes cleaner welds, but you need to be in an area where the wind won't blow the gas away from the weld, such as in a garage. So I would look for a welder that can do both, as both have their place.
As for the grinder, one thing I would stay far away from is any grinder that has an on/off slide switch. It is harder to 'pulse' the grinder when needed, and if you ever drop it it will scoot across the floor not caring what it hits (like your leg!) :eek:
Look for one that has either a trigger switch that must be held down to grind, or a paddle switch such as Milwaukee uses. (I have a Milwaukee with a paddle switch and I just love it. Much safer than a slide switch.) Cut off discs are available for grinders, so you wouldn't necessarily have to buy a separate cut off tool, unless you don't want to change discs.
As far as a helmet goes, I really recommend getting an auto darkening helmet with a grinding option. The grinding option is nice because you can set the helmet to not darken, thus you can use it to grind with. If you can't find one with that option, you can set the sensitivity on a regular auto darkening helmet so a grinder won't darken it. Just remember to reset it before welding! 8)
Get one that has easily replaceable front lenses. They go in the helmet in front of the electronics module and keep spatter off of it. I would also look for one that has the capability of using magnifying lenses on the inside of the helmet. I have two helmets: a Viking series welding helmet from Lincoln, which is really nice but doesn't have the grind feature, and an AutoArc helmet from Hobart that has the grind feature, but has the shade control on the outside of the helmet where it can get bumped.
The Lincoln helmet is a Viking Patriot 2450 Welding Helmet, current MSRP of $230, Amazon has it for $176. I used this helmet on a daily basis for 4 years at work, and it never let me down.
http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-K3032-1-P ... ing+helmet

The Hobart can be had for $99 on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378 ... UTF8&psc=1
It has the capability of using magnifying lenses, but I don't have any for the Hobart. It's a nice helmet.
Between the two, though, I prefer the Lincoln. You can get Lincoln helmets in a wide variety of designs. Just go to http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/eq ... lmets.aspx and check 'em out.
Good luck with your truck, and I hope your knee heals quickly! :thup:

Edit: Forgot to add: get yourself a welding beanie. Hot weld spatter in your hair is NO fun!
Also, when welding, wear leather boots that extend up under your pants legs. You get some hot weld spatter down your tennies it'll make you do things you didn't have no idea you could do! :evil:
How NOT to dress for welding: (This boy's dumber than a box of rocks!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyJ8AEZDVLY
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by flyboy2610 »

I just noticed my Lincoln helmet DOES have a grind mode. There's a little tiny dot at the end of the sensitivity setting that says, in tiny letters: Grind. Never noticed that before. :oops:
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hillcountryflt
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by hillcountryflt »

Hey thanks for the responses. I was kind of thinking of a grinder with a cut off option to reduce my tool acquisition requirements.
Had not known that helmet technology was so advanced.
As for a welder, would the Hobart 140 be a good option?
It appears to support flux core.
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by ToughOldFord »

flyboy2610 wrote: How NOT to dress for welding: (This boy's dumber than a box of rocks!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyJ8AEZDVLY
:lol: :lol: I like the discharge of the grinder going straight to his bare leg. :lol: :lol:
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by HIO Silver »

Get two grinders. Why? Cuz it's a pain in the azz having to switch btwn cut-off wheels and flap wheels. One should be a quality tool like a Milwaukee or DeWalt and arm it with flap wheels. Quality grinders have good bearings. The other grinder can be a cheapie like a $10 Harbor Freight 4.5-inch... use it for cut off wheels only because they have cheap bearings and cannot withstand side loads. I've had my cheapie HF for two years and it's holding up well because the cut-off wheel is doing the work.

Welders.... buy the biggest and best you can afford because it is a tool that can last a lifetime. I recently stepped up to a Miller 211AS after having a Miller 140AS. The latter is good for light fab work but if ever welding on a frame or fabbing bumpers you'll want the ooomph of a 220v for good penetration. The 211AS has a dual voltage plug and circuitry so all it takes is using an adapter to automatically switch from 110v to 220v. I wired a 25-foot, 8/3 power cord directly to a 50A breaker in my panel. Combined with a 75-foot, 8/3 cord from Miller, I reach all the way around my house and even into the street with 220v.

Personally, I never use flux core but do have a 2lb spool in case I ever need it.

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hillcountryflt
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by hillcountryflt »

I am fine with getting two grinding/cut-off tools.
But at the time being cannot swing the $1000 for either the Hobart 115/230 v or the Miller 115/230 v welders. I have not even cut into my old truck yet and it has been 30 years ore more since I tacked a weld or ran a beam. I have been reading and watching videos related to it. Think I have a grasp.
Of course the settings will be a challenge. Gotta get me some scrap to practice with.
I am also looking at an inexpensive set up to make new brake lines - bender and flaring tool.
Dang this is really where I had the right setup for doing this work. As it is I don't have the space to pull everything off of the frame and redo it all at once. Section at a time and planning to start with the back half.
1971 F100 Custom SB Flareside;
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by HIO Silver »

Since it sounds like you've got the time, I recommend reading through my build thread which is linked in my signature. I redid the brake lines and show & list the tools I used. All I used was a low-buck flaring set from Autozone.

I have a bad attitude (dread!) with any type of plumbing and did this. You can too:

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70 F100 LB 2WD, 360FE, E-Street EFI, TKO-500, 76K original miles.. follow my rebuild: The Lo-Buck Bumpside
71 F250 LB, 2WD, 360FE, T18, PS, PB, D60 with 4.11s
73 F100 SB 4WD, 390FE, NP435, +4 on 35s

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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by hillcountryflt »

Read through the whole thread on your project Hio Silver.
As the grasshopper once said, "I am not worthy." But did review your comments on plumbing brakes. My plan it to simply mimic the existing brake lines.
Regarding mig welding, since it sounds like I will prefer to weld with gas when possible, what gas will be my most likely choice?
And as to welders, I don't know that I will attempt another vehicle after this. With that thought I am tempted to consider the Miller 125 and 135 welders. Both support flux and true mig welding.
Also, while visiting a company here that does Bronco rebuilds (the older models), the proprietor suggested two other "must have" timesavers:
A spot weld removal bit and a pair of electric or pneumatic metal shears.
Look at their work was pretty cool. Putting Mustang 5L engines in Broncos and other stuff.
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2016 Harley Ultra Limited
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by HIO Silver »

For MIG welding gas, 90/10 (argon to CO2), 80/20 or 75/25 are the norms. My local welding supply shop only offers 75/25.

Spot-weld cutter... I use Eastwood's PN 11276. Avoid the lo-buck PN 11282 - the teeth will break off.

I don't have electric shears and get by with cut-off wheels, aviation snips, and a throatless shear.

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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by flyboy2610 »

Miller's are good welders. We have some of them out at work. I think you'd be happy with them.
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by Madman »

This is going to sound funny, but a digital camera......Take a ton of photos of how things are set up/assembled.....it may not sound like a tool, but I am finding it invaluable in my work.
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Re: getting started - what's needed

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Madman wrote:This is going to sound funny, but a digital camera......Take a ton of photos of how things are set up/assembled.....it may not sound like a tool, but I am finding it invaluable in my work.
Yep. Doing that even before I get started. My camera phone is pretty good, plus I have a couple of others if needed.
Keep all of my photos online so I can retrieve them with any device (surface, phone, computer). That's where I keep my drawings as well.
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Re: getting started - what's needed

Post by thejunkman »

As far as cut-off wheels go, find a place that sells metabo super slicer 4.5 inch cutting disc for your angle grinder. Since I've been using them, I won't use anything else. And while I use the harbor freight pneumatic cut-off tool when I have to, I find that they sure do hog a lot of air. The electric angle grinder is the way to go on long cuts.
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