Advice for towing Ford Truck on uHaul Auto Transport Trailer

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eggman918
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Re: Advice for towing Ford Truck on uHaul Auto Transport Trailer

Post by eggman918 »

High temps are a sign of too much friction from either not enough grease or the trailer being overloaded or too high a speed or a combination of any of these. A good rule of thumb is that if it's too hot to grasp firmly with your bare hand for a few seconds then something is not right. If its running too hot the first thing to check is the condition of the grease and whine it open the condition of the bearings and races.

Here are a couple of video tutorials

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0J1JcVlfp8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfTtImHtDvo
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Re: Advice for towing Ford Truck on uHaul Auto Transport Trailer

Post by hfdco4 »

I towed a 1970 Highboy from MA to MD. I had an extra engine the bed as well as some spare parts. We used a U-Haul trailer and the truck just fit after changing the front tires to stock tires. We could not go more than 50mph or the trailer would start wagging my truck. We were towing with a 2003 FX4 with towing option. No problem pulling or stopping, just too much wag. We went about 430 miles and it took 10 hrs. You only have two other options for trailers that I can see, Sunbelt and United Rentals and I do not know if either does one way rentals. They actually have trailers rated for 10,000lbs.
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Re: Advice for towing Ford Truck on uHaul Auto Transport Trailer

Post by DuckRyder »

I know I am late to the party here, but a couple more things.

U-Hauls one way equipment tends to be in better shape than the local stuff, I think they use it for one ways, then when it gets higher miles and problems it gets relegated to local service. They generally give you a pretty generous time allowance to get some where on a one way rental.

The last truck I had was pretty clapped out, it was a 26” gmc topkick and was flat out scary loaded or unloaded at 60 mph towing nothing. When I told them the oil light was on at hot idle they said it was ready to retire.

Penske might not be that more expensive and their stuff in generally better.

If you have someone going with you its possible that a one way rental of a Transit Cargo Van would be cheaper than shipping the two bikes.
Robert
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farmallmta
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Flat Tow with Tow Bar can work just fine, PROVIDING THAT...

Post by farmallmta »

... you do it correctly and used good sense.

Also late to the party, but I'll comment so others can get the benefit of my experience towing bumpsides.

An earlier suggestion was good for your situation: flat tow with a tow bar. Thousands of vehicles are towed daily at full highway speeds with tow bars. This can work just fine for you as long as you observe a few commonsense rules. I towed a '69 F250 with a tow bar behind another '69 F250 (both purchased from their separate original owners the same day) from Albuquerque, NM to Amarillo, TX, about a 5 hour, 400 mile trip over some mountains, hills, desert. I had no problems whatsoever. However, the following rules were observed.

1: Tow at night when traffic (and Law Enforcement presence) are lowest and you can more safely keep your speed down
2) Remove driveshaft, stow in pickup bed with U-joints taped securely to prevent bearing caps from coming lose and scattering bearings
3) SECURELY attach the tow bar to the towed vehicle. Brackets can be easily fabricated for the front bumper. The one I towed had a grill guard with holes for tow bar attachment.
4) Front suspension and tires of towed vehicle MUST be in very good condition. If the front end and steering are slack and have play in them, flat towing is not an option. Fix what should be fixed. D0 NOT START OUT WITH A LOOSE FRONT SUSPENSION AND BADLY WORN TIRES on either vehicle as you'll see whipping and travel that can be a hazard to you, your vehicles, and others on the road. Get your vehicles in good shape before you start.
4) Flat towing is accomplished at posted road speeds. If you have a load on the towed vehicle, slow down. You're still going to get where you're going at 45mph, just a little later. SLOW DOWN!
5) Connect a light kit from your towing vehicle's trailer harness to the back of the towed vehicle: the magnet style of kit stays put just fine and requires no drilling into your towed vehicle or light system. Harbor freight has these along with the tow bar you'll need.
6) Some drivers tie a rope with a bit of slack from the towed vehicles steering wheel to the towed vehicles vent window pillar or door handle to ensure the steering wheel cannot turn fully, sending the towed vehicle to the side dramatically in the case of an emergency. I've found it's not needed or advisable. If both vehicles suspensions are in good shape and you drive wisely, you'll have no problems.

Again, thousands of vehicles are flat towed by tow bar daily at highway speeds. U-haul used to rent tow bars and hitches, but Harbor Freight can be cheaper. I can personally vouch for the safety, cost effectiveness, and ease of this method of transport as long as you observe the above rules.
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Re: Advice for towing Ford Truck on uHaul Auto Transport Trailer

Post by bph »

I just wanted to post an update stating that I successfully transported my 1970 F250 360 V8 Camper Special just under 2500 miles towing it on a U-Haul auto transport trailer behind a U-Haul 15' truck. No problems whatsoever.
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Re: Advice for towing Ford Truck on uHaul Auto Transport Trailer

Post by bluef250 »

If you have the time and finances, you may consider buying a 7,000 gvv 18' trailer - used or new. This size is just marginal but will work. At the trips end, you sell the trailer. If lucky you could get your money back.
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