My 71 Bump

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Uni Moe
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by Uni Moe »

clemsonjeep wrote:Thanks I'll look into those. Anyone know where the ground cable that attached to the firewall on the driver side is suppose to attach to the motor?

Mine was previously attached to a valve cover bolt...but that just doesn't seem right.
Is there a bolt hole on the back of the head you can use?
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Uni Moe wrote:Is there a bolt hole on the back of the head you can use?
I looked there but it seems like I only have the two holes on the passenger side...not the driver side. Odd...
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
Uni Moe
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by Uni Moe »

On my 68 the ground was on the passenger side. Easy enough to put one over there. Just make sure you've got good contact on bare metal. Use those serrated washers.
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Come to find out all my issue was due to the neutral safety switch. Not sure why, but for some reason the linkage is out of adjustment and led to the nss not being happy. :evil:
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Well there I was all happy about having a cleaned up motor with new seals only to find out that the rear main isn't happy. Oh well...it'll get driven for a while like it is because I'm not about to dump out all those fresh fluids this quick...or yank the motor back out. :cry:
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Had an issue with the alternator not charging so i looked for a how to on diagnosing the charging system since i havent messed with these external regulators much. So i found one and it said to install a jumper between the A&F terminals on the regulator plug and that would put the alternator in full field mode.

I acted too quickly and ended up burning up the harness in a hurry. That sped up my plans a little and i went to the local pull a part this weekend and grabbed a 3G 130amp unit. Luckily the LtGr/Red wire was spared along with the wire for the horn. Now ive gotta modify the 3G housing a little to clear the engine block and pick up some new cables.

Should have it up and running in the next day or so. Ill just be disregarding the ammeter I suppose. Hoping ill remember to take pics because thats one area Ive had difficulty on the site so far...lack of 3G install pictures.

For reference the alternator I pulled was from a 1995 Ford Taurus with the 3.0L.
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Ok, just in case anyone was still wondering...the alternators from the Taurus with the 3.0L that have the extra mounting studs will work just fine on a 360. What I did was pull the regulator out of the back of the alternator by removing the 4 torx head screws. Then I found a piece of wire...similar to a paperclip and straightened it out so I could insert it in the hole in the regulator to hold the brushes in place for re-installation. I just used the tip of a torx driver to push the brushes back up into the regulator. Then I removed the three screws that hold the case together as well as the pulley. Then using a large tipped chisel with a blunt point and a small hammer with the alternator sitting face up I tapped around the front case until it popped loose. This allowed me to clock it to the position I needed to get the "+" stud away from the head as well as get the plugs up top for easier access. Then I put the case back together, installed the three screws, installed the regulator and its four torx screws, pulled the wire out to seat the brushes, and installed the pulley.

Next I wrapped some shop rags around the outside of the case to cover up the vent holes because the next process creates a lot of metal (aluminum) dust. I used a flap disc on my 4.5" grinder to remove material from around the "button" on the back as well as the mounting surface it adjoins. I didn't have to, but I also chose to remove material from the "extra mounting stud" that this case had on it. It was not going to keep the alternator from being mounted properly, but I just figured since I was at it I might as well knock it down.

Wiring was about as simple as it can get...seriously. I pulled approximately 24" of the wiring from the donor vehicle to go with the plug on the alternator. This included the LtGr/Red (excite wire) and an Orange/Blue wire (sense wire). The Black/White wire already has its own plug and does not get modified. The LtGr/Red wire is tied back into the factory wire in the 2 wire plug near the starter solenoid. The Orange/Blue wire was attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid using a 3/8" ring terminal. I also cut the 2 other wires from the factory 3 wire plug leaving the Black/Yellow wire long enough to attach a 3/8" ring terminal and put it on the battery side of the solenoid as well.

From there it was just a matter of making the connections from the alternator to the solenoid and from the battery to the solenoid and engine block. I found a 19" red 4awg cable that I used for the "+" connection from the battery to the solenoid and a 40" black 4awg cable from the solenoid to the starter. Then I used a 42" black 4awg cable from the "-" battery to the engine block just behind and below the alternator. I'd picked up the charge wire from the donor vehicle with probably 36" of length to be sure I had enough as well as the 175amp mega fuse and a plastic mount from another Ford vehicle (can't remember what it was on, but I think it was a Ranger). I ran the charge cable from the alternator up to the back side of the battery tray where I put the mega fuse and then ran a short cable from there to the battery side of the starter solenoid. For all of the connections where I cut cables I used copper lugs with 3/8" holes for 4-6awg cable and soldered and heat shrunk each one.

Here's a list of the parts I picked up at Advance Auto...minus the two ring terminals for connecting Black/Yellow and Orange/Blue to the solenoid...

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Got ahead of myself, but this is just after starting to remove material...
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Done removing material...
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Mounted...
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Clearance...
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Battery Wiring...
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Mega Fuse...still need to attach to the truck, but it's not going anywhere with the 4awg cables attached.
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71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Got around to dropping the oil pan to fix the only leak its got since the refresh. I was glad to see the flex plate was dry when I removed the inspection cover. So when I dropped the pan it was obvious that the leak was a result of a gap at the rubber pieces between the block and bearing cap where they meet the oil pan gasket.

I believe I'll be entrusting the fix to some Right Stuff rather than attempting to repair it with the engine in the truck...it was hard enough getting that cap out with the motor upside down on the stand...

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Not very easy to see, but the rubber is below the surface

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71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
crazyhorse
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by crazyhorse »

Mr Clemson, thanks for the good information and the good pictures.

Looks like you have everything going your way now.

Thanks for posting the good pictures :thup: .
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

I also meant to mention that IT IS possible to remove the pan on a 71 without dropping the oil pump. All I had to do was lift the motor enough to lay a piece of 2x4 on its thin side between the motor mounts. Then I pulled the dipstick and the oil pickup tube.
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by F100 Dad »

clemsonjeep wrote:Thanks I'll look into those. Anyone know where the ground cable that attached to the firewall on the driver side is suppose to attach to the motor?

Mine was previously attached to a valve cover bolt...but that just doesn't seem right.
Mine was attached to one of the pair of raised bosses on the intake manifold. They are located near the firewall, slightly towards the driver's side. They are about an inch and a half apart.
- 1970 Sport Custom long bed, 360 C6 2WD -
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poke em
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by poke em »

Looks good! A brass wire brush and some carb cleaner work very well for cleaning up alternator casings.
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

Thanks guys. I ended up attaching the ground to a mount on the side of the bellhousing. It's a vertically oriented hole that nothing goes through so it allowed me to let the wire go somewhere other than the engine.

As far as the alternator goes...I'll probably wait a little while to clean it up because while I had it apart to clock the case I noticed the brushes and the commutator are have quite a bit of wear so it's due for a rebuild. At that point I'll have it all the way apart and can clean, prime, and paint it with the same silver I used on the fuel pump bracket and oil filter mount :thup:
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

What would ya'll recommend that I do for these spots on the side of the bed where its down to raw metal. I don't plan to repaint any time soon...still wrestling with the idea of leaving it alone or eventually putting it back to a clean paint job. I just don't want these spots to turn into something that requires a lot more work when I finally do make up my mind. The previous owner said he had put several coats of wax on the truck. I couldn't help but chuckle a little, but he was serious. The water beads up on this truck better than it ever has on my 07 F250 :lol:

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clemsonjeep
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Re: My 71 Bump

Post by clemsonjeep »

I'm having a problem with my truck. It's been running GREAT all this time up until I parked it a week ago while we were out of town. Came back home and went out the next morning to drive the truck to work and it wouldn't idle...anytime I gave it any gas while idling it'd die. Rather than duplicate everything I've said in another post I'll just link it here:

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... =3&t=79503

I'd appreciate any help!
71 F100 Ranger XLT 360
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