Kickdown rod on 390 and C6 with edelbrock carb

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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jjsamc
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Kickdown rod on 390 and C6 with edelbrock carb

Post by jjsamc »

Got my passing gear to work after some trial and error. Edelbrock carb on 390 with C6.
The trick for me was to use Edelbrock kit #1483 and attach the kickdown rod to it.
Adjust by holding both the throttle and kickdown rod in wide open position, and adjust the screw so it is a couple of millimeters from touching. I did have to get a longer screw than what comes with the kit.
Now it downshifts good when I floor the gas pedal.
Question: Is there a speed when the downshift will not happen? If I am on the freeway going over 65mph, I don't feel it downshift if I slam the pedal. Is this normal?
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1967 F-100 SWB 390 C6 Duraspark1 Edelbrock1406
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Manny
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Re: Kickdown rod on 390 and C6 with edelbrock carb

Post by Manny »

Yes its normal to be tacked out in rpm to the point kickdown does not drop a gear. When governor pressure is at max like 65 kickdown pressure will never override it. Also you will notice at a certain point kickdown no longer takes you to first it only kicks to 2nd. Normal operation of a c6 sound like you got it dialed. Welcome to Fordification!!! :D
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jjsamc
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Re: Kickdown rod on 390 and C6 with edelbrock carb

Post by jjsamc »

OK thanks for the additional info on C6 kick-down operation. Good to know!
1967 F-100 SWB 390 C6 Duraspark1 Edelbrock1406
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colnago
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Re: Kickdown rod on 390 and C6 with edelbrock carb

Post by colnago »

Manny wrote:Also you will notice at a certain point kickdown no longer takes you to first it only kicks to 2nd.
Under normal conditions, should it kick down to first? I thought it was just a 3-to-2 thing, but then I don’t currently have a kickdown lever installed.

Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
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Re: Kickdown rod on 390 and C6 with edelbrock carb

Post by Manny »

colnago wrote:
Under normal conditions, should it kick down to first? I thought it was just a 3-to-2 thing, but then I don’t currently have a kickdown lever installed.

Joseph
If your slow enough. The shift valves 1-2 and 2-3 have pressures and springs acting on them. Springs to hold them down in 1st and then pressures push them up. However kickdown pressure shoves them down governor pressure pushes it up. Governor pressure is via tail-shaft speed or road speed. So as you speed up governor speed comes up pressure comes up and it overcomes the spring. Then your in second if you stomp it kickdown pressure pops you back to first. But if you get up to speed in 3rd you will be going fast enough that 1st is an engine explosion. So you go to second. Then if your really flying like 85-90 you will get to a point that the engine is already 3000 rpm or better so kicking down is a bad idea again. It's all in the springs and pressures. That why when you install shift kits the shift stretch out as it takes more road speed to overcome them stiffer springs. Wow that got long winded hope it helped.... :lol:
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
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