keeping a rear end on the ground...

[truckfreak]

okay people, lets hear some ideas to frankenstien a rear end setup togather for my 2wd long bed '67 f-100, for those people who know what 500 hp really does gimmie some ideas, because with 500 hp the ass doesnt want to stay on the ground and id rather not spin out for a month every time i put my foot in it.

[CACWBY]

Ah yes a subject dear to my traction impaired heart. I don't think I have 500hp but I am around 425-440. I did not research this very well. Was just looking to lower it. I have leaf springs with 2 leaves removed and balance de-arched, with c notch and the 2" lower spring hanger and shackle hangers. And I do have my tank behind the rear axle. I upgraded rear to limited slip, and 31 spline axles and switch R & P to 3.55, even put in a driveshaft loop. All with drag racing in mind. Unfortunately wheel hop is so bad that I'm paranoid about going to a strip, afraid I'd leave something on the pavement. It hops so bad that the tops of the tires can actually hit the inner lip of the rear fenderwell. It's easy to do power brake burn outs and all, but when you really want to hammer it and go it gets a little insane. I'm thinking that the only really good way to handle the hP is a four link rear. There is a Traction Bar that will work for set ups with rear end above springs- but I think it might have clearance issues as well (my pipes exit right in front of rear wheel).

[stangn]

I'm heading the same direction with a short bed. Caltrac bars and make sure the pinion angle is correct.
That should make a big improvement.

[BobbyFord]

I get no wheel hop with my thick 3600# leaf springs. The problem really is a light rear and lack of weight transfer.

[SeapineF37]

kinematics is a complicated and long fought battle among my racing friends. they really get into these details on their cars. my truck isn't really dealing with these issues but my understanding of the main points of the discussion to inprove hook up...
1. tire pressure - keep it low in rear (like under 20) and high in front (around 40). pressure decreases exponentially increase coefficient of friction
2. tires - compund is critical. get most width possible but also running softer compound makes a huge improvement in increasing friction.
3. weight - lower overall weight is good but transfering necessary weight to area over drive axle will increase friction. sometimes you need a little weight back there to get the friction up so maybe play with sandbags etc?
4. axle wrap / pinion angle / rear downforce - sounds like youre good in this dept but i hear lots of talk about caltrac bars, lowering front perchs, and other meand of increasing front lift and downforce in the rear.
all of this may just be bs talk but sounded plausible to me so thought i would add it to he discussion

[Wafe01]

Could always drop some 1/8 thick Diamond plate steel sheet in the bed, a 5 ft by 6 ft sheet will run around $300 new. And add an extra 190 lbs weight to the back tires.

[BobbyFord]

I have 22 gallons of fuel behind the rear tires. Battery is in front of the right rear tire.
I suppose you could do a lot more to increase traction and weight transfer but mine is a driver.

[mrtleavitt]

I have the James Duff bars on my 2wd. Fixed my wheel hop. I really like them because they are hidden up in the wheel well.

They fit my '69 F100 no problem. They are a pretty universal application. Very easy to install. After I got my 428 FE on the road I broke a 3rd member yoke, twisted a leaf spring, broke a driveline, and stripped a stock 31 spline 9" axle. After these few incidences these traction bars fixed everything.


http://www.dufftuff.com/Classic_Tractio ... p/5300.htm

[omee]

Thanks for the suggestions. I've been wanting to do something for years to address that dreaded wheelhop.