Bed seam question??

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Ozblitz
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Bed seam question??

Postby Ozblitz » Thu Sep 07, 2017 11:52 pm

What's the best way to treat and duplicate the seam on the bed of our bumpsides?

I was thinking of sand blasting seam. Then treat it with rust neutralizer then epoxy and lay down a bead of 3M beige firm seam sealer. I'm not sure I can duplicate laying the sealer down though?? I usually run my finger over the sealer in the seams and that's not how it looks factory. Anyone have any ideas??

Lone Ranger
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby Lone Ranger » Fri Sep 22, 2017 9:21 pm

It might not look factory but it would look good just using your finger. Maybe something smaller diameter than your finger would make it look more factory.
1972 f100 4x4 4 inch lift with dump box kit-sold
1969 f250 4x4 highboy in progress.
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DuckRyder
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby DuckRyder » Sat Sep 23, 2017 5:14 am

I need to do this as well.

How does it look from the factory?
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (390/C6/Dana 44 Locker)

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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby jamesdfo » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:02 pm

Back in my bodyshop days, when seam sealers were all air dry products, if we wanted to get real fussy with the seam sealer, we would leave it dry several days, then sand it with 100g to get in smoothed the way we wanted, then carry on with high solids primer over top (assuming we hadn't cut through to bare metal anywhere, in which case, it would get epoxy before the high solids)
These days, with the 2K seam sealers (ie: catylized) that are now available, it should be much easier to do this, and waiting several days shouldn't be necessary........

If you want to get carried away, you could take two engine stands and build a quick & dirty rotisserie to mount the box on, then rotate it so that one of the box panels is horizontal. Then, if you use the "self leveling" seam sealer, it will flow out all on it's own, without any subsequent messing about required:) Later that day, or the next day, roll it over and repeat on the other side:)

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jzjames
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby jzjames » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:48 pm

Rust in the seams happens from the backside of the seam. Re-doing the seams with new seam sealer will probably not last as long as new from factory. It would be good if you could somehow coat the backside of the seams with some good waterproof sealer - like tar!

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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby Lone Ranger » Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:01 pm

On my old truck I left the seam open and would just squirt oil in a few times a year and wipe off the excess.
1972 f100 4x4 4 inch lift with dump box kit-sold
1969 f250 4x4 highboy in progress.
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hdman90
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby hdman90 » Fri Oct 13, 2017 7:39 am

What I don't understand, is why didn't they just weld the seams? I think that would have prevented so many of the problems we have today... But I could be wrong.
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cep62
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby cep62 » Sun Oct 15, 2017 8:42 am

hdman90 wrote:What I don't understand, is why didn't they just weld the seams? I think that would have prevented so many of the problems we have today... But I could be wrong.


50 years ago they were just spotting them together and shipping them out the door .
They had no idea that people would be concerned in the distant future.

Back then a five year old car was considered old .

In 1985 I re did a 1960 F100 ,it was rare to see another truck of that vintage on the road. (in Michigan)
Today my dd is a 93 F150 , same age truck , but now they're everywhere (some probably shouldn't be on the road anymore.)
People expect more from a vehicle now days.

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Jacksdad
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby Jacksdad » Sun Oct 15, 2017 9:49 am

Lone Ranger wrote:On my old truck I left the seam open and would just squirt oil in a few times a year and wipe off the excess.


Off topic, but I remember a friend of my Dad's would paint the underside of his car with the oil he'd just changed. Apparently it wasn't much fun to work on right after, but it kept the chassis and floorpans in perfect condition.
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.

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jzjames
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Re: Bed seam question??

Postby jzjames » Sun Oct 15, 2017 7:58 pm

Yes, think outside the box when you are thinking preservation and rust-proofing.

You want to prevent moisture from contacting steel. :D


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