Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

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EasyE
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Re: Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

Postby EasyE » Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:32 am

So I got the driver's side floor pan and cab mount finished up about a month or 2 ago and I'm just now getting around to following up.

I want to mention a couple of things that I took away from this.

  1. I'm not going to say it's impossible to do the floor pans without the cab mounts, but it will certainly take you A LOT more time. Unless your cab corners are in spectacular shape, I'd say replace them at the same time. They're not super expensive.
  2. Since you're doing the cab mounts, get yourself a spotweld cutter. They're like $30-40 and will save you a ton of time and frustration. I tried to remove the cab mount with a drill and chisel, and I wasted about an hour with basically zero progress. I said screw it, and hopped on amazon and bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X ... UTF8&psc=1 Got back to it a couple days later and had all 8 of the spotwelds that attach the mount to the seam on the firewall cut out in about 30 minutes.
  3. I bought the replacement pan, replacement cab mount, and the cab mounting kit from Dennis Carpenter. I was not happy with any of those items. The floor pan appeared close to the original part when I was installing it. I got it trimmed up and welded in without too much trouble (or at least no more than I expected). However when it came time to weld the cab mount back on it became apparent the pan wasn't shaped exactly correct. So there is a huge gap where the cab mount transitions from floor pan to firewall. The cab mount itself appears to be formed VERY close to the original; I'm pretty sure it's the pan that is the issue. The problem I did have with the cab mount is a minor one -- the cab mount from DC has 2 holes to mount the inspection cover; the truck originally had 4. So I had to weld those up and drill 4 new holes. And finally on the cab mounting kit; the bolts that come with the kit are too short.... Going to have to go buy longer bolts. Not super happy with Dennis Carpenter.
Anyway those are my thoughts. Take them or leave them. No worries.

PetesPonies
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Re: Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

Postby PetesPonies » Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:36 am

From lots of experience . . there is something better than spot weld cutters. I never use them anymore. I use Black & Decker Bullet bits. They last MUCH longer and come in many sizes . . . . . . as spot welds are not always the same size.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

cep62
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Re: Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

Postby cep62 » Wed Aug 30, 2017 8:52 pm

I'll use a spot weld cutter when I'm trying to save a panel.
Like separating a used 1/4 panel from the inner construction on a panel replacement .
I'll also drill through if I'm not reusing the bottom piece ,( again on a used part.)
If I'm removing rusty metal and trying to save the weld area I'll use a 5" stone grinder or a cut off wheel to grind the spotwelds,
then separate the panels with a air chisel.

A grinding disc is cheaper than drill bits.

If you cut the majority of the panel off then come back and attack the spot welds it's easier to split them apart.

If you use a grinder use hearing protection and a face shield.
Also cover all trim , paint and glass ,because a grinder will pit and ruin it

(I shouldn't have to tell you about the gas tank and battery)

Pete I never tried the B&D drills , I'll have to check them out.

PetesPonies
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Re: Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

Postby PetesPonies » Wed Aug 30, 2017 9:15 pm

I'm talking about using the Bullet bits when you are separating panels. I do this work often in my restorations. They are just so much better than the little crappy spot weld cutters.
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Mustang RUSToration & Performance

71Fe2O3
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Re: Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

Postby 71Fe2O3 » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:20 pm

Thanks for that, PetesPonies, I haven't heard of them before. That work is difficult at best, and having the right tool for the job can be a real time-saver.
Fred

1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck

1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road

1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts

PetesPonies
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Re: Cab mounts, floor pans and cancer rust

Postby PetesPonies » Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:40 pm

A Bullet bit id a drill bit that is flat with a small pilot point on it. The pilot will drill through, but it is small. The flat portion of the drill bit is what you are after. It will drill such that you can gauge when you are through the top piece. If you keep going, you can drill right through, but that isn't what you want. You drill and keep an eye on it until you are through the top piece. Compared to the spot weld cutters, it is very very durable. You can cut many spot welds with it and no breakage, unlike spot weld cutters. Having used both, this is the better way IMO.Image
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