sticky locking hubs

[matt_stan40]

i have a 1968 F100 4x4. i apologize ahead of time if this has already been discussed in previous posts but this website is telling me the search feature is down, not sure why but anyways im having a problem with my locking hubs. both are having problems but the right one especially. ive looked at the diagrams for the locking hubs for my year and even bought a book that shows the same diagram that i can find here at fordification but mine seem different then what is shown in the diagram and my book. it has less parts to it and has 8 alan bolts instead of the 3 that the diagram says its supposed to have. what is happening is that both locking hubs are so stiff that i have to use a wrench just to get them to rotate. the locking hub on the right side will even slightly disengage on its own as i am driving and as a result i have to stop about every 10 mins after engaging the 4 wheel drive just to make sure that it is still in the lock position. i have just re-greased the right side hub (am going to do the left side tomarrow) but now that ive re-greased and assembled it again i am not able to rotate the hub as much as i am able to on the left side hub. i can only get about one rotation out of the right side as opposed to the turn and a half that i can get out of the left side. any insight into this matter is greatly appreciated. also if anyone can give me any information on how to identify what kind of axel i have will also be valuable (beings that the one i have is inconsistent with the diagram of what im supposed to have.)

[basketcase0302]

matt,

i can only get about one rotation out of the right side as opposed to the turn and a half that i can get out of the left side.

This doesn't sound right, (having to turn the hubs that much) hopefully someone else can chime in here on that. With the allen screws your hubs almost sound like Warn, but all the Warn brand I ever saw had the name stamped on them.
Your front axle should be a D-44, here's the front axle ID tutorial:
http://www.fordification.com/tech/dana-front-01.htm

[robertbruce]

does the vehicle have the correct closed knuckles on it?

i had the exact same problem when told a jeep knuckle would fit... closed jeep knuckles fit but they have no extra movement/space for locking hubs... early jeep was fultime 4x4...im probably wrong in that assumption but i do think too much...
my problem was the inner face of the fwh was catching on the axle stubs and engaging 4x...

for a temporary fix i removed the brass bush/washer on the uni, put some spacers under the allen keys and taped around the hub to protect it...I didnt use 4x4 during this time, i also have lockers which make great redundency....

Eventually i got a correct knuckle and everything is back to normal...
The bush i mentioned protects the inner spline so it is only a temp fix...
i hope this helps...

[matt_stan40]

im very mechanically uninclined and not very knowledgable in these things. forgive me for asking but what are closed knuckles??
also, where on the axel might i find any sort of indicating marks that could lead me to proper identification?

[robertbruce]

heya Matt,
im not a mechanic, am naive in my knowledge but i will try to help...

the knuckle is the casting that sits on the big ball at the end of your axle (housing)... they have what ford calls trunnion bearings on the top and bottom of the knuckle as pivot points
after '72 ( i think) most design went to what they call a C. Basically two arms holding the front assembly, one upper and one lower. They have ball joints as pivot points.

did you get this car, had it a while, not used 4xx4 and the issue has just surfaced?
or recently had a repair done?
or has it just started happenning, when befor everything was fine?

problem is, the hub that isnt disengaging in 4x4 will be engaging in 4x2 and you may have already blown you housing and diff seals,,,

don't worry tho' - it's an greasy, easy, cheap fix

[Art]

I suggest posting a picture or two of the lockouts so we can see exactly what type you are working with.

The knucles referred to earlier is where the U-joints are to allow the truck to steer.  Early models had them enclosed in steel and cast iron, running in gear lube, and having a spherical seal to keep the gear lube in.

Later model trucks have open knuckles, and the U-joints are exposed to the elements (and must be greased).

If you still have doubts about the knuckles, post a pic of those and we can help.

Art