Mustang Fuel Tank Install (Pics)

[HIO Silver]

Thanks for the info. I would rather not fabricate the tank. I noticed some other people are using the Scout II tank for their rear tank installation. I will take the bed off and take some measurements.

'Didn't mean to fabricate the tank.

[luke-ao]

Do these tanks come sealed (inside) so they wont rust or do you have to do it yourself?

[IN2FORD]

On the very first page it shows a pic of the cross member and the nuts welded to it for the bed and cross member. Is it possible to put the wall side first so that the cross member is open to the back and be able to get to the nuts ? If so then no need to weld them in right???

Barry

[BobbyFord]

On the very first page it shows a pic of the cross member and the nuts welded to it for the bed and cross member. Is it possible to put the wall side first so that the cross member is open to the back and be able to get to the nuts ? If so then no need to weld them in right???

Barry

Is just simple to only need access to one side of the fastener.

[IN2FORD]

I decided to mount mine the other way so that I had a place to keep the wiring for the bed. I am going to have a weather pack connector inside the channel so that the wiring for the tail lights can be disconnected. Just seemed to be a safe place to hide the wiring.



Barry

[Razor0888]

Barry for a place to keep your trailer wires, wouldn't it be just as easy to cut a groove from one end of a 1" square tubing to the center with a additional notch going down at the middle for your wires to set or hang from and weld it to the flat side of the support member like what Bobby had already showed? That would be only a few more minutes of fab work? I guess either way. I'm getting ready to do this mod too with the 22gallon SS tank from Scott Drake, but I may have to figure out how to tweak it a bit because I want to use a 4 Link set up from Heidts. I don't guess anyone else has tried this with a 4 Link? Thanks again for everyone's previous inputs. As others have stated, this is a much needed mod for me!

[IN2FORD]

Barry for a place to keep your trailer wires, wouldn't it be just as easy to cut a groove from one end of a 1" square tubing to the center with a additional notch going down at the middle for your wires to set or hang from and weld it to the flat side of the support member like what Bobby had already showed? That would be only a few more minutes of fab work? I guess either way. I'm getting ready to do this mod too with the 22gallon SS tank from Scott Drake, but I may have to figure out how to tweak it a bit because I want to use a 4 Link set up from Heidts. I don't guess anyone else has tried this with a 4 Link? Thanks again for everyone's previous inputs. As others have stated, this is a much needed mod for me!

What I did was super easy. If you flip it so that the flat side is out, then you have to weld nuts so that the bed bolts can be installed in the back. With it flipped the way I did it, you have access to the nuts so no welding and again its a place for the tail light wiring to run from one side of the bed to the other. I am sure there are several ways to get this done right. This just happened to work out for me. Looking forward to seeing your 4 link set up!

Barry

[twoton]

Im taking that the tank swaps you guys are doing are on short beds? I just did my 67 Long bed 3/4 ton and the crossmember you guys are showing that you are rolling on its side looked nothing like mine. The 3/4 ton had a flat plane to it with no drop. I still have to come up with something for the rear of mine,

[66Bindee]

Question regarding the install of the mustang fuel tank... You moved the rear brace between the leaf spring shackles further back then allow adequate room for the tank. Does this weaken the rigidity of frame where the shackles are? I don’t think it would be a big issue, but thought I would ask. I am looking to do something similar on a international harvester pickup I’m working on.

[BobbyFord]

Question regarding the install of the mustang fuel tank... You moved the rear brace between the leaf spring shackles further back then allow adequate room for the tank. Does this weaken the rigidity of frame where the shackles are? I don’t think it would be a big issue, but thought I would ask. I am looking to do something similar on a international harvester pickup I’m working on.

On mine, I didn't move a crossmember. I flipped the rear crossmember upside down.
To answer your question, I don't believe relocating a crossmember a few inches would create any issues.

[JeffCobb1956]

Hi! As said before this is a very good and informational thread! I have a 68 short bed, and using the 18 gal. Mustange tank, mounted on the flat side of a boxed, welded 1"x1" angle iron frame, inside the frame rails "so far so good". My question is what route would I need to take to mount the bumper and brackets on to the frame? Should I weld? Or drill and bolt the bumper back on? Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks! Jeff1956.

[IN2FORD]

Hi! As said before this is a very good and informational thread! I have a 68 short bed, and using the 18 gal. Mustange tank, mounted on the flat side of a boxed, welded 1"x1" angle iron frame, inside the frame rails "so far so good". My question is what route would I need to take to mount the bumper and brackets on to the frame? Should I weld? Or drill and bolt the bumper back on? Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks! Jeff1956.

I was able to bolt mine back on ok

Barry

[JeffCobb1956]

Thanks for the reply Barry. Since the original bolts were very rusted, I picked up some new ones from Lowe's and paid my local muffler guy, same guy that redualed my exhaust out the rear a few bucks to well the bolts from inside the frame rails to bolt the bumper brackets back on from the outside of the frame rails. Put it all back together on turkey day, but I got to the turkey a little late. LoL!.
Installing a Carter electric fuel pump is my next project. Looking forward to finding a good low spot to mount it away from the exhaust pipes and also locating the right color wire on the ignition switch to connect it to. Plus a oil pressure safety switch, and a relay.
Any ideas, or tips?

[sargentrs]

If you're talking about the switched hot ignition circuit, it's the red/green #16 wire in this diagram. http://www.fordification.com/tech/wiring/68-09.jpg. Make sure you stay on the correct side of the pink resistor wire. If you're going to install a relay anyway, why not just add an additional ATO fuse block and use those extra circuits for the fuel pump and other accessories you may add later.

https://youtu.be/s7npq2HVszM

[JeffCobb1956]

Hi out there! Could someone head me in the right direction! I need to know "what color wire do I connect to coming from my ignition switch to go to my 3 prong oil pressure safety switch?
21 Yellow
292, 30 BLK/green
32 RED/blue
16 RED/green
977 Vilot

And what terminal or where do I connect the oil pressure safety switch to at the starter relay solenoid?


Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!