The Ranger XLT Misses HRPT 2019 and Gets Ready For Power Tour 2021

[DuckRyder]

Thanks Steve, thats a help (thats an actual Ford mirror, but he swing lock looks the same)

In your second picture, the large washer, that is on the bottom side of the dark spot that can be seen and engages the two divots on the mirror frame. is this a bearing or a spot weld or something else.

I’m wondering if I could put two pan head screws there, red lock tire them and flush them off on the top. The way I think this works is that the large washer (or plate) acts as a spring.

[Bullitt74]

I’ve never looked that close, but it’s a real weird setup:

[DuckRyder]

That helps too, it looks the same. Thank you

And you are right, it is a real weird set up.

Heres the arm where whatever is in there sits:



and here is what came out of mine:



It might have been round at some point, but I don’t understand what keeps the bearing in there if it is a bearing.

Also it may not be apparent, but the oblong plate (17B744 in the diagram) is threaded and appears to lock down when the nut is tightened so you can fix its position.

For HRPT I don’t think these are going to be swing locks...

I got one side of the nutserts in, I forgot when i put the “sport” mirrors on I hit the area with zinc chromate primer so I had to do something... I’m not sure it is much less inconspicuous. Definitely not my best work...

It will have to be redone when it is painted anyway...



I think the guy who put the mirrors on all those years ago at the dealer may have been drinking too, because the holes aren’t the same side to side, but that too I will fix when it is painted... right now, I just need to see behind me.

[DuckRyder]

GRRRR....

So, I ordered a mirror hardware kit form a guy on e-bay (or more precisely a freind of mine did it for me) but failed to read the fine print and contact him for the additional parts for Rotunda Mirrors... His hardware is very nice, nicer than the commercially available raw hard ware but to make a long story short I’ve probably got 150.00 in hardware... hopefully I’ll finish the mirrors tomorrow night. They won’t be all polished up, like so many other things It will get done when it is blown apart again for paint.

OReily screwed me on the booster... or I guess more precisely their new system did, because the store thought it was coming when it actually wasn’t available, no one has one with a non adjustable pushrod or can get it. NPD sold me the adjustable one and a kit that is supposed to have an end in it that will work. Plan B is Summit had a Scott Drake rod that might have the end, plan C (hope not) is a guy I know with a welder...

Stand by for more.

In other news, Mrs DuckRyder got herself a new chase car.

[The Bandit]

It is for sure a bearing that goes in both those cups on the mirror arm. the big washer has four holes in it to act as the locking positions for the mirrors when you swing them in or out. Two holes for when there swung in and two for when you swing them out that way they don"t swing in on you while you are rolling down the road and the air starts to push back on them.

[DuckRyder]

Mirrors on! I can see! Fond some shady body work in the driver door (funny how I find things I vaguely remember dealing with before...)

Booster shipped late - pray to the UPS gods.

As I predicted the mirrors went back in non-swing lock style... I did get some stainless 2” washers and think I can probably make the plates. I forgot bearings though and I’m still not sure I get how it is supposed to work. I understand they are supposed to swing out of the way, but how the plate and the special nut are supposed to work...

[The Bandit]

The plates and holes in the plates work kind of like the legs on those popup canopies people have when you extend legs out and the button locks into the holes on the legs.

The plate with the holes on our mirrors serve two purposes:

1. To apply spring like tension to the bearings or balls in the small cups so the mirrors aren't to loose when swinging them in or out.

2. The holes in the plates give a place for the bearings to rest when they are positioned in or out and kind of lock the mirrors into position so that they don't swing back on you going down the road.

[DuckRyder]

So the divots in the arm reliably hold the bearings and they stay put in the arms while sliding over the washer/plate with holes?

Someone could sell quite a few of these if they were nice reproductions...

Got some of the punch list knocked out today.

Backed the cold enrichment off at 140 degrees to put it in learn mode sooner ...

Hub caps back on.

Might have an axle seal leaking, investigation tomorrow.

[The Bandit]

So the divots in the arm reliably hold the bearings and they stay put in the arms while sliding over the washer/plate with holes And lock in to position because of the holes in the plate.

I added the words in bold to the quoted part of your reply but Yes that is precisely how they work.

[DuckRyder]

Still waiting on the booster. Today it says. I suppose early in the day would be too much to ask...

Found a leaking axle seal and replaced.

[Ranchero50]

What's yet on the punch list?

[DuckRyder]

What's yet on the punch list?

Well ... ummm .... the first thing on the punch list is making a punch list I did say I was going to be woefully unprepared...

Axle seal consumed all day yesterday... no one has catalogs wrong all the typical crud.

I expect the booster will be a fiasco too ...

[Ranchero50]

You should be able to install a late model booster if needed.

[DuckRyder]

Hopefully it won’t come to that, trying to keep her looking period ...

But

Out for Delivery Today
Scheduled Delivery

Tuesday
06/04/2019
Estimated Time

8:30 A.M. - 12:15 P.M.

For the record its 12:58.

[DuckRyder]

Why can’t anything be simple...

I think I can make what I’ve ended up with work... of course it involved a trip to Summit and when I pulled the truck out, yup axle seal leaking again...

Currie seals picked up too...

I have an extra pushrod that came with a master cylinder, I’ll cut it off and tread it so that I’ll have an end to connect to the pedal.

For the record neither the SSBC kit or the Scott Drake end will thread directly into the booster...