I've go a 351 Cleveland in my 70 F-100. Fuel pump performance is in question. So it's gonna go. I've got a new one. Since I've attempted a job like this only once before (on an 84 Camaro that ended up being towed to a shop) I thought I'd check here before proceeding in the next couple of days. Im also awaiting a manual the covers the engine in question. I know that little tricks to make things easier are not regularly covered.
I'm told to hand crank the engine, so that the cam lobe (eccentric) that drives the fuel pump rocker arm is at a point of least resistance. Makes sense, but how do I find out where that point is? During installation? Purhaps with the help of someone else armed with a pry bar pushing gently against the pump while cranking the engine over by hand? I asked the guy at the shop how he managed to "Get er Done"on my Camaro. Well he said, it took two of us about a half an hour. That's all he'd devulge... I didn't have the secret hand shake. Mike
the reason to turn the engine over to that point is so it makes the bolts easier to put back in. what yuo can do is start one ofthe bolts and then see how easy it is to puttheother bolt in. and then turn the enigne until you can more easily put the second bolt in. this is a easy job really. the hard part about it might be is if you have a/c and power steering because you will have to work around those things to get the pump off and back on.
On you ford you don't have to worry about the plunger rod falling down and trying to get it pushed up while bolting fuel pump on like the chevy engines.
Michael69
'69 Ranger 'F-100 2WD SWB 351W C6 AUTO
1985 CJ 7 jeep w/35s
1967 SS Chevelle 502 4 speed
2003 Heritage softail w/110 cubic inch screamin eagle kit
michael69 wrote:On you ford you don't have to worry about the plunger rod falling down and trying to get it pushed up while bolting fuel pump on like the chevy engines.
Exactly, because there is no plunger rod in a Ford. I hate the sh*t out of Chevy fuel pumps because of those, Ford is easy stuff in comparison so it's a good one for a DIY job.
on a chebby you put thick grease on that rod and pushthe rod up in the hole.don't start the engine with the rod in place. oris it outof place. i forget that part. just don't crank it over without the fuel pump on the engine. it will bend that rod. see i do know something about chebby.
The pump went in with comparative ease. By partially removing the pump and then reinserting it I got a FEEL for how the new one should go when installing it. The new pump is of course much stiffer and required repressing down hard while getting the bottom washer and nut started. After that I tightened the nut just to a point where I could adjust the position of the pump to get the upper bolt installed... 2 min to get the pump installed. I did not use a torque wrench as I don't have manual yet (it's in the mail) Initial removal and Cleaning of Power Steering pump, bracket, Lower Radiator Hose, and the Coil (was replaced during this as a preliminary to a complete tune-up) took an hour cuse I move pretty slow. This was a breeze. Everybody, thanks fer you input.
Yah copy that. I did check and that Timing Chain is pretty sloppy. I hope I won't need to replace it to soon. I'll replace the Water Pump at the same time. Question is, if it goes south, does the engine simply quit and not start like my Olds did or is there some warning. I don't know if the gears are Steel or Nylon. And since I just spent 90 bucks fuel system parts, stuff for a through tune-up and Cooling system overhaul, thay'll have ta wait. Timing set runs about $40 and the pump is $30.
Mike
