71 ford Ignition switch/lock/cylinder?

[vonburger]

I inherited a 71 ford f100 recently and the keys have been lost for years. What am i going to need to replace? Proabably a dumb question but indulge teh ignorant please.

[sargentrs]

Most parts store carry ignition switch/lock/cylinders for our trucks for around $20. Easy swap. You can also ask on here (parts wanted) or check Ebay for single/common key lock/cylinder sets so you can have the same key for ignition and doors.

[Ranchero50]

Ditto, to remove the ignition switch you can buy a fancy tool or just use a 1/4" tip screw driver. Insert it in one of the three slots in the bezel nut for the fancy tool and rock the switch back and forth from under the dash while unscrewing the bezel nut.

[vonburger]

Thanks For the help guys, Do you have any experience with common key ignition and door lock set from LMC?

[sargentrs]

Sorry. Never bought from LMC.

[Kurt Combs]

There is a set of NOS lock and keys on Ebay right now. There is also a NOS ignition switch.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300723732886?ss ... 964wt_1397

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200745328606?ss ... 343wt_1166

Better buy them quick, they are on my wish list!

[killakobra]

x2 on the screwdriver.

[killakobra]

also on the ignition cylinder and key set i've been using one for 3 years no problems.

[vonburger]

I realized i needed to specify. As in, are they seperate parts? Do i need a switch, lock and cyclinder?

[killakobra]

if you want to re-key the truck then you need just the cylinder and door lock if you are savvy enough to drill out the cylinder in the switch. i forgot what size i used but i drilled it out slowly making sure not to drill into the switch it's self till i could turn it. Then i turned it to ACC, stuck a paperclip into the small hole in the cylinder and then turned it to the left till it slid out.

[bbailey83]

Hi everyone, I’m new on here and recently purchased a ‘71 F100. I had it running with some minor issues but nothing I can’t sort out. I only ran into an ignition problem after I swapped out the tumbler, immediately after the tumbler slid out of the switch I heard a buzz and smelled smoke coming from the engine compartment. I found the alternator harness completely fried so I replaced it, still no change. I checked the charge on my battery, no issue there, replaced the solenoid, ignition switch and even put the old tumbler back in to see if that might help, no change. I was planning on replacing the ignition coil anyway so I went ahead and did that but didn’t expect any improvement and I was correct. I was told it might be the ignition relay by a mechanic friend but I haven’t found any info on that yet. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[390FE1972]

I'm certainly not an auto electrician, so hopefully someone will chime in to help you with this. Here is a thread talking about frying wiring harness, and it mentions the starter solenoid (relay). As I am sure you are painfully aware now, make sure you disconnect your negative cable from your battery when working on the electrical system. When you get a chance go to the Welcome Mat here on the sight and introduce yourself.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =8&t=68858

Regards

[sargentrs]

Did you check the harness plug at the back of the ignition switch? Just pulling out the key tumbler shouldn't have made anything like that happen. All it does is turn the switch so the contacts connect the appropriate circuit. If it fried the alternator harness, guaranteed other circuits are damaged.

[bbailey83]

So after spending hours looking through wiring diagrams and tearing apart the old harness that I was able to at least narrow down the issue to one three wire plug. So, the replacement alternator harness didn’t have all of the same connections as the previous, which had been spliced several times, making it difficult to figure out where these three wires are supposed to be connected. I realized that I had been getting no power to the ignition switch at all with these missing connections, I figured out which wire provides power to the switch so that’s one down. The other two have me stumped once again. From the look of the old harness they were probably spliced into the alternator bat wire but when connected there they threw some sparks and burnt up the little clamps on the jumpers. I’ve tried every possible place I could think they should connect but having no success. The bright side is that I can jump the solenoid and it will run so I guess until I sort it out I’ll smile for the small victory. Any advice is greatly appreciated.