Door tread hardware

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jingo
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Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

Can someone tell me what screws/bolts are used for the aluminum door tread that covers each door gasket along the bottom of the door jam?

I've restored a couple of pieces that came loose from the PO but after multiple paint jobs on the door jambs, including my new paint, the holes are partially filled. I can't tell what was originally in there. Looks like one larger bolt forward and a #8 or #10 screw or bolt along the bottom.

Thanks!
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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Ranchero50
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by Ranchero50 »

They were chromed or galvanized Phillips screws. Should be able to pick some up at the local Lowes.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue

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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

Regret the duplicate post, please discontinue this thread. Thanks - Jack :x
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

So the new Mustang cranks worked great. But they came without knobs, any way to use the knobs from my current cranks? They're nice, original, and spin like a top. Is there anything like them in the market? Also utting out the lower section for the door release cup worked well. And after a trip to the only donor wreck in my area, a 71 350 dually, I had a drivers side regulator. The last part for both my door shells. :hd: Pretty happy with how it all turned out :)
Driver panel.jpg
But in every silver lining is a black cloud itching to get out. When the truck came back from the paint shop, the shifter was kaput. Today I found the extent of the damage. The shift casing running down the steering column is completely shot.
Shift column.jpg
Not sure what to do. A couple hours ago I was going to be driving around town this weekend for the first tie in a year. Now I've got a disaster to deal with. Would appreciate any input here, parts, sources, etc. Should open a new thread in the steering forum...I really need some help.

Thanks
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1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

Doh!, wrong thread
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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sargentrs
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by sargentrs »

Same thing happened to me when I was cleaning mine for my column rebuild a few years ago. Couldn't find one anywhere till flyboy2610 saved me (Thanks, flyboy!) Now available from several vendors. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb- ... 9MQAvD_BwE Also at Mac's, Dearborn Classics, 1A Auto and others.
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

Thanks Sarg. I'm still not sure the shift bowl (alone) is the only problem. Clearly the core in my shift bowl is split, but I can't figure out how it's connected to actuate the lever and link arm at the other end of the steering column.

I looked up the steering schematic for 'automatic and three speed'. It appears that 7212 is a 'tube' surrounding the actual steering post. But I can't see from the schematic, or from my busted shift bowl, how they are connected at the top of the steering column. For instance, could the 7212 shift tube itself be split all the way down the column. Big question is how the two are connected to one and other.

Thanks
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by sargentrs »

I think I posted this thread just for you! :lol: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=72274. Odds are slim your tube is trashed. There is a plate on the back of the tube flange and the tab on your shift lever engages it in multiple places when you shift gears. Pulling toward you on the shifter totally disengages it from the "park" slot and the rest of the gears just slide into slots along the plate for the different gears which rotates the bottom of the shift tube moving the bottom lever to operate your tramnsmission lever. The steering shaft slides through the tube and is independent of the shift tube. I also made a slide show on YouTube for a quick overview https://youtu.be/4jXlsuhg2u0
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

Yeah Sarge, I found the thread after I posted to you, very helpful. I'll bet the slide show is just as good.

I was freaking out that I'd be chasing down donor rigs for a whole steering column, just to get a few parts. Very surprised to see the vast selection of steering components that can still be bought new. C&G seems to have the best selection, but DC and others also. Seems like there were a lot of common components in the steering gear between Ford trucks and passenger cars, so it kinda makes sense.

Looking at the schematic, there are probably a few other bits on my truck that have been lost along the way with the POs. For instance, I had no NSS (C7TZ-7A247A) so I bought one a while back. But there's a selector pin (DOTZ-7B097) that is also sure to be missing, so I'll probably have to buy one of those as well.

Another annoyance was that my turn signals did not return to 'off' when the steering wheel returned to center. Any idea what piece might be missing, broken, or installed backwards/upside down?

Thanks!
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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The Bandit
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by The Bandit »

The ears or tabs on the turn signal switch are broken so you will need to pull the steering wheel and replace the switch underneath the wheel.
Not really a hard thing to do but a bit of a process just to get the wires back down the column. I tied on a pull string when I pulled the old switch and wiring out of mine so I could tie the new wires on to it and pull them back down the chase in the column itself.
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1972 F100 custom SWB 302/C4 Auto PS No AC Wimbledon white and rusty..
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Re: Door tread hardware

Post by jingo »

Thanks Bandit, you were quite right. Both ears are busted off, ordered a new one today. A pretty simple repair, clip iff the connector up top, tie in string or tie the new wires to the old, pull through the column. Done.
1970 Ranger Styleside, LWB, Harbor Blue
416, C6, man brakes & steering
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