'70 f100 brake booster

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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DougDA
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'70 f100 brake booster

Post by DougDA »

I'm wondering if others have run into this when trying to find a replacement booster....

My original booster is the smaller 9" single diaphragm type with a non adjustable pedal rod. All of the replacements seems to show the same canister with a threaded female rod. and the threaded rod extension isn't included?


Does anyone know where the adjustable extension can be purchased?
390FE1972
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by 390FE1972 »

You might give these guys a call, maybe they know of a source for one: http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com

Let us know what you find out.

Regards :thup:
1972 F250 Sports Custom 390 FE C6 2WD Dana 60 4:10 gears
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sargentrs
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by sargentrs »

Summit has a large selection https://www.summitracing.com/search/par ... ner=SREPD4 Also Jegs, CJ Pony, Scott Drake, Wilwood, etc.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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DuckRyder
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by DuckRyder »

sargentrs wrote:Summit has a large selection https://www.summitracing.com/search/par ... ner=SREPD4 Also Jegs, CJ Pony, Scott Drake, Wilwood, etc.
I tried most of those that look like they would work... nope.

Right now i have an old manual brake pushrod cut and safety wired in.

Don’t let one of the box stores send yours off for build your own, more than one of them said they will use yours to fill someone else’s order.

Haven’t gotten around to booster dewey yet...
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
DougDA
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by DougDA »

In case anyone runs across this thread in the future, here's what I had to do to remedy my issue. (btw, the part that was on my truck originally turned out to be for a f250 w/360-390 engine. I was able to find numbers for this part but NO suppliers had this part in any of their warehouses....)

So,

I ended up using the part # 54-73515 even though it requires you to use your original adjustable extension rod.....which I didn't have since my original had the one piece non adjustable style.

What i did was measure everything (several times!) and cut my original rod end off and weld it to a 7/16 - 20 x 2" bolt with the head cut off.

works great but always frustrating to take a brand new part and modify it to make it word on the truck it's listed to fit.....
Last edited by DougDA on Mon Jun 29, 2020 2:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
390FE1972
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by 390FE1972 »

Thanks for letting us know. What a pain to have to do that! Glad you were able to get it fixed.

Regards :thup:
1972 F250 Sports Custom 390 FE C6 2WD Dana 60 4:10 gears
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sargentrs
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by sargentrs »

DuckRyder wrote:I tried most of those that look like they would work... nope.
Thanks for the tip, Robert!

And thanks for the fix, DougDA!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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DuckRyder
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Re: '70 f100 brake booster

Post by DuckRyder »

So heres al alternate plan for those without a welder or who don't want to cut the original booster:

BTW, spare manual brake booster rods are available from the usual mustang places i do believe.

Cross posted from my project thread:
Remember how I said I had rigged the booster because I could not get one with the non-adjustable rod?

Here is the rigging:

Image

I looped a ring of safety wire around the booster behind the hex and one around the rod in front of the flat and tied then together with another loop.

This actually would have worked fine, except that I cut the spare manual brake booster rod too short so the pedal was low and the brake switch didn't operate properly.

Enter McMaster Carr:

Image

Ball Joint Rod End 7/16"-20 Thread, Right Hand 60645K35 1
High-Strength Steel Threaded Rod 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 1 Foot Long 90322A140 1
High-Strength Steel Hex Nut Grade 8, Black-Oxide, 7/16"-20 Thread Size 94895A190
Mil. Spec. High-Strength Steel Hex Nut Grade 8, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, MS51967-9 94191A300
Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Grade 8 Steel Washer for 3/8" Screw Size, 0.406" ID, 0.812" OD 98023A031
Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw Grade 8 Steel, 3/8"-16 Thread, 1-1/2" Long, Partially Threaded 91257A628

I also elected to use nuts on the brake switch:

Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Steel Thin Hex Nut Grade 8, High-Strength, 1/2"-20 Thread Size 93839A825

The biggest problem with this plan is that the hole in the rod end is 7/16 the hole in the brake pedal is 3/8. I was not able to locate a 7/16 20 threaded rod end with a 3/8 hole in the bearing, nor was I able to locate one with sufficient male threads to work without using a female rod end and threaded rod. Either or both would make it cleaner.

I made a spacer out of an old fuel injection hose clamp you could fashion basically any piece of flat steel of the proper thickness into a spacer.

I thought I took a picture of this but apparently did not.

And Viola -

Image

I'm sure you could source the bolts, washers and nuts locally in smaller quantities more economically.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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