Under dash gauges

[Vwbuggin69]

So the PO installed aftermarket under dash gauges from summit. Nice set but it does not have the voltage gauge hooked up. Where can I tap into in order to get the proper voltage reading? Truck is a 68 F-250. Thanks.

[basketcase0302]

Vwbuggin69
So the PO installed aftermarket under dash gauges from summit. Nice set but it does not have the voltage gauge hooked up. Where can I tap into in order to get the proper voltage reading? Truck is a 68 F-250. Thanks.

VOLTAGE OR AMPERAGE GAUGE? Pretty specific as to where they hook up.

[6Delta]

If they are the Summit brand gauges they have the instructions for installation on their website. Probably would work for other brands also.

[Vwbuggin69]

Vwbuggin69
So the PO installed aftermarket under dash gauges from summit. Nice set but it does not have the voltage gauge hooked up. Where can I tap into in order to get the proper voltage reading? Truck is a 68 F-250. Thanks.

VOLTAGE OR AMPERAGE GAUGE? Pretty specific as to where they hook up.

It’s an amp gauge. My apologies I should have been more specific. So I have 2 choices, either:

1. Buy a voltmeter and find a hot lead or
2. Wire via the starter solenoid.

Edit: just ordered a voltage gauge so my first question of where to T-off from remains.

[zgerbic]

The voltmeter connection is not very critical so can be hooked to anywhere behind the dash where you can find switched power (ignition in run position). The voltmeter will probably have two or three connections on the back. One goes to the lights, one to the ignition hot connection and the last to ground (or it just grounds itself through the physical connection of the meter metal to the dash metal).

If mounting below the right side of the steering wheel:
I would hook the connections to the fuse box or behind the dash. One of the wires coming from the fuse box is the switched power that is on when the ignition switch is in the run position (297, black with green stripe). Use that for the voltage connection on the voltage gauge. I would pick up the light power from the light power for the light for the cigar lighter (19B, blue with red stripe).

If wiring behind the dash panel:
I would hook the voltage connection to hot lead going to the dash gauge voltage regulator (has several names like constant voltage unit) (30, black with green stripe). I would hook the light connection to a wire that goes to the dash panel lights (19A or 19B, blue with red stripe). Ground, if it has a separate connection would go to any connection that is screwed to the body metal. If you can find where 30 and 19 wires where they go through the dash panel connector, put your connections on the truck side so you can remove the dash panel in the future without having to remove the wires you spliced in.

If the switch is to be mounted just below the ignition switch area:
I would hook the voltage connection to the ignition switch wire that is hot when the ignition switch is turned to the run position (16, red/green). I would pickup the lights connection off the headlight switch (the wire that goes to the big ceramic resistor that controls dash light brightness (19, blue with red stripe). Ground, if it has a separate connection would go to any connection that is screwed to the body metal.

Some of the schematics for the overall truck wiring will have the color code for the numbered wires to make it easier to find them. I am pretty sure I got the colors right for the numbers above. You can check with a test light or multimeter to make sure.

For info on how to hook up ammeters see my posts and write-up at http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=96570 . If the gauge is a shunt type gauge you will need to run two small wires up near the starter solenoid (with two 1A fuses) and will have to install an ammeter shunt wire if the truck does not already have one. If the gauge is an actual current measuring gauge, you will need to run two 8-gauge or 10-gauge wires up near the starter solenoid, large fuses about 30A required at the ends of both wires at the solenoid side, to run the truck power through as described in the write-up. Fuses at the solenoid side of the wiring are required in case there is a short in either wire going through the firewall and over to the gauge to prevent a fire.

Regards

[Vwbuggin69]

The voltmeter connection is not very critical so can be hooked to anywhere behind the dash where you can find switched power (ignition in run position). The voltmeter will probably have two or three connections on the back. One goes to the lights, one to the ignition hot connection and the last to ground (or it just grounds itself through the physical connection of the meter metal to the dash metal).

If mounting below the right side of the steering wheel:
I would hook the connections to the fuse box or behind the dash. One of the wires coming from the fuse box is the switched power that is on when the ignition switch is in the run position (297, black with green stripe). Use that for the voltage connection on the voltage gauge. I would pick up the light power from the light power for the light for the cigar lighter (19B, blue with red stripe).

If wiring behind the dash panel:
I would hook the voltage connection to hot lead going to the dash gauge voltage regulator (has several names like constant voltage unit) (30, black with green stripe). I would hook the light connection to a wire that goes to the dash panel lights (19A or 19B, blue with red stripe). Ground, if it has a separate connection would go to any connection that is screwed to the body metal. If you can find where 30 and 19 wires where they go through the dash panel connector, put your connections on the truck side so you can remove the dash panel in the future without having to remove the wires you spliced in.

If the switch is to be mounted just below the ignition switch area:
I would hook the voltage connection to the ignition switch wire that is hot when the ignition switch is turned to the run position (16, red/green). I would pickup the lights connection off the headlight switch (the wire that goes to the big ceramic resistor that controls dash light brightness (19, blue with red stripe). Ground, if it has a separate connection would go to any connection that is screwed to the body metal.

Some of the schematics for the overall truck wiring will have the color code for the numbered wires to make it easier to find them. I am pretty sure I got the colors right for the numbers above. You can check with a test light or multimeter to make sure.

For info on how to hook up ammeters see my posts and write-up at http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=96570 . If the gauge is a shunt type gauge you will need to run two small wires up near the starter solenoid (with two 1A fuses) and will have to install an ammeter shunt wire if the truck does not already have one. If the gauge is an actual current measuring gauge, you will need to run two 8-gauge or 10-gauge wires up near the starter solenoid, large fuses about 30A required at the ends of both wires at the solenoid side, to run the truck power through as described in the write-up. Fuses at the solenoid side of the wiring are required in case there is a short in either wire going through the firewall and over to the gauge to prevent a fire.

Regards

Wow thank you for this! I truly appreciate it. I love these forums.

[basketcase0302]

Sorry so late responding my ISP dropped the ball on me for a few days.