HI, I just had a vintage air a/c kit installed, and I am not sure it it is related but I am having some stalling issues. Basically, when stopping at a light, it rough idles a bit, and most times will stall and die. I have to either put it in neutral and give it some gas, or have my foot on accelerator a bit while in gear and other foot on brake. Truck did stall a bit before, but is now more pronounced.
What do I need to trouble shoot? I'm assuming I'm not getting enough gas at a stop, so maybe increase idle speed? Timing? Thanks for any help.
1970 Ford F100 302, Auto C4
Stalling After AC Install
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jgf100
- New Member
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:01 pm
- Location: Greenville, SC
Stalling After AC Install
'70 F100, 302 C4
-
jgf100
- New Member
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:01 pm
- Location: Greenville, SC
Re: Stalling After AC Install
Update:
Problem solved. Tuned carb a bit and set idle rpm to a bit higher. Please delete post if needed.
Problem solved. Tuned carb a bit and set idle rpm to a bit higher. Please delete post if needed.
'70 F100, 302 C4
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UKPR1
- New Member
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2020 9:17 am
Re: Stalling After AC Install
Going through this right now as we speak...
Installed a Vintage Air a few months ago, and putting it to the test on 100 degree South Florida summer days. A loud but wonderful option BTW.
However, I've noticed that at long lights, after a few minutes, the idle quality starts to decline and about a minute after that, it "feels" as though it wants to stall, unless I put it in park or neutral, which raises the engine RPM's up slightly. This is apparently a well known phenomenon and the reason behind the incorporation of an Idle Compensator on engines:
The Idle Compensator is generally used on vehicles with air conditioning. When a vehicle comes to a stop and the engine is hot, the carburetor tends to richen up and even percolate (boil). The compensator has a bimetal piece of metal that when the temperature gets hot, the bimetal curls up and causes the idle compensator to open.
The solenoid listed for my Edelbrock carb (PN 8059)is pricey, however, ($230) and thought of as not being completely effective (apparently, you have to tap the go-pedal when idling to keep the solenoid engaged - which is the same amount of effort as is done now to stop it from stalling), so I haven't rushed out and bought one. Looking at other ways to combat the supposed fuel-boil instead...
Installed a Vintage Air a few months ago, and putting it to the test on 100 degree South Florida summer days. A loud but wonderful option BTW.
However, I've noticed that at long lights, after a few minutes, the idle quality starts to decline and about a minute after that, it "feels" as though it wants to stall, unless I put it in park or neutral, which raises the engine RPM's up slightly. This is apparently a well known phenomenon and the reason behind the incorporation of an Idle Compensator on engines:
The Idle Compensator is generally used on vehicles with air conditioning. When a vehicle comes to a stop and the engine is hot, the carburetor tends to richen up and even percolate (boil). The compensator has a bimetal piece of metal that when the temperature gets hot, the bimetal curls up and causes the idle compensator to open.
The solenoid listed for my Edelbrock carb (PN 8059)is pricey, however, ($230) and thought of as not being completely effective (apparently, you have to tap the go-pedal when idling to keep the solenoid engaged - which is the same amount of effort as is done now to stop it from stalling), so I haven't rushed out and bought one. Looking at other ways to combat the supposed fuel-boil instead...