engine oil to use?

[fixxer]

I am new to these trucks and I have a 70 f100 with a freshly rebuilt i6 300 with a c6. I am going to be changing the oil and from what i could find people say to use 15w-40 and other say 10-30 or 10-40. Nothing I could find specified if that was for newer or older worn out engines. I assume 10w-30 would suffice but I dont want to be the "ass" that assumes

[Ranchero50]

10W-30 or 10W-40 if it smokes and has low oil pressure.

[fixxer]

10W-30 or 10W-40 if it smokes and has low oil pressure.

I have the hardest time on this forum with people being able to read.............

Brand new motor, no smoke

[BobbyFord]

Single wt, non-detergent oil with a zinc additive. 2,000-2,500 rpm's for 30 mins.

[DuckRyder]

10W-30 or 10W-40 if it smokes and has low oil pressure.

I have the hardest time on this forum with people being able to read.............

...

I get your frustration, I really do, but that stuff won't win you any friends.

To be clear when you say "brand new engine" do you mean it has not been started (in which case refer to Bobby's advice) or do you mean its new and been run in and this is the 500 or 1000 mile change?

As far as weight, your climate makes a difference but barring any temperature extremes the lack of an "energy conserving" label and presence of moly are probably more important considerations than weight except that I would not go lighter than a 10W-XX.

A good quality diesel oil is probably most suited, although there are "racing oils" and "high mileage" oils that may also be suitable.

[fixxer]

I am not trying to win any friends. Just asking general advice.

Its an already run in motor and I'm changing it at the 1000mile mark right now.

[Kurt Combs]

fixxer, Ever hear of a black ball? Do you have problems with interpersonal relationships in person? Just thought I would ask, because I am seeing a pattern.....

[BobbyFord]

I am not trying to win any friends. Just asking general advice.

Its an already run in motor and I'm changing it at the 1000mile mark right now.

Valvoline VR1. What is your region/climate? I run straight 40W

[Ranchero50]

IP address says he's from Kansas, hard to tell with the winning attitude.

I-300 with a 'fresh' stock rebuild really isn't going to care too much so same deal, 10w-30 or 10w-40 if it smokes or is run in the heat.

Honestly fixxer, I've seen enough junk rebuilds and smoking 'fresh' engines that your description warranted that answer. I sincerely hope your engine runs better than that.

Jamie

[TNIceWolf]

If I had a fresh engine.....and it was running well without any smoking or problems.....I would dance with the one that brought me. Why change to something different if what you have is working?

[fixxer]

IP address says he's from Kansas, hard to tell with the winning attitude.

I-300 with a 'fresh' stock rebuild really isn't going to care too much so same deal, 10w-30 or 10w-40 if it smokes or is run in the heat.

Honestly fixxer, I've seen enough junk rebuilds and smoking 'fresh' engines that your description warranted that answer. I sincerely hope your engine runs better than that.

Jamie

The joys of an IP scanner. I am not from Kansas my IP changes every 5 min. It does not smoke, I am very mechanically inclined and i have heard mixed opinions on what oil to use. Like I have said before its a new truck to me. I was under the impression this was a forum to ask for advice? Not warrant eachothers egos...

fixxer, Ever hear of a black ball? Do you have problems with interpersonal relationships in person? Just thought I would ask, because I am seeing a pattern.....

What pattern? And I am married......

[Wilma-Colorado]

Fixxer,

I have a '70 F100 with a well worn 302. I agree with the straight 40 weight Valvoline VR-1 in warm weather, VR1 10W-30 when it's colder. It's high in zinc and phosphorus and both of those elements help control wear, especially on cam/lifter pairs and other rubbing contact areas.

Wilma

[fixxer]

Fixxer,

I have a '70 F100 with a well worn 302. I agree with the straight 40 weight Valvoline VR-1 in warm weather, VR1 10W-30 when it's colder. It's high in zinc and phosphorus and both of those elements help control wear, especially on cam/lifter pairs and other rubbing contact areas.

Wilma

Where abouts are you in Colorado? I reside in southern CO

[1972hiboy]

Ive always favored the 15/40 with its high zinc for the older engines. But climate would really dictate if you get into some cold temps a lighter oil would make sence.

[Earthling789]

My engine was rebuilt in '99 from the ground up... and the PO used whatever was cheap... mixing brands and weights (yes, he was an idiot). When I got the truck, I flushed the engine and started running Heavy-duty, Shell Rotella T 15W-40, changed the oil after 500 miles, and again after 1000 miles... never once had a smoking issue and the engine runs so much quieter now. After nearly 3K since the last change, the oil is relatively clean on the dipstick, and I'm sure it would take less than 1/2 a quart to top her off right now!

I use Rotella T in all my older engines... truck , VW Beetle, and of course my motorcycle (wet clutch)... And, at $12/gallon, it's a no-brainer... cheaper than Wal-Mart or House-brand 10W-30 or 10W-40 "standard" oils.

Oil weights are suggested from the manufacturer based on AVERAGE for the area the engine is expected to operate in, but what you "should" use will depend on temperatures where you live, and of course how you drive... what you're hauling... etc...

Viscosity labels on the jug tell you how the oil behaves based on temperatures (air temps) at start-up (cold engine)... single number is a single-weight oil, two numbers are multi-viscosity oils. and behave differently in your engine based on temperature. For a label of 10W-40, that tells you at low temps, the oil behaves like a 10-weight oil, and at high temps, the oil behaves like a 40-weight oil. Once the engine has reached operating temp, the only number that matters is the upper number.

If you live in a climate where low temps are VERY low... go for a lower first number like 5W or 10W... 15W is still good for low temps of 15-20-deg, whereas 10W is better for 5-10-deg, and 5W is better for lower temps (below zero). Upper number is for the high temps... -30 is good for temps up to 90-deg... if you see daily temps higher than 90-deg (southern states), then you will want to go with -40 or even -50. If you regularly haul heavy loads or trailers, you'll definitely want to go with a higher second number, or at least a Heavy-Duty rated oil to prevent premature break-down of the carbon-chains...

One more bit of advice... Look at the bottom half of the API seal on the oil containers... if it has the words ‘Energy Conserving’ then its probably better to pass on that one. It will break down in your engine a lot faster, and you'll not save any money because you'll have to change oil more often or risk damage to the engine from premature break-down of the oil (especially if you haul heavy loads and put stress on your engine regularly). Hope that helps....